In the notice on recommending the third batch of green manufacturing list issued by the general office of the Ministry of industry and information technology a few days ago, the green supply chain part included textiles and clothing in the scope of application for the first time, and encouraged core manufacturing enterprises with strong representation, great influence, strong business strength and good foundation of green supply chain management in the industry to apply for green supply chain management demonstration enterprises.
In recent years, the China Textile Industry Federation has taken "science and technology, green and fashion" as the new positioning of the textile industry, advocating that the industry should focus on green raw materials, green design, green production and circular application, and continue to promote the green development of the textile industry. However, there is still much room for improvement in the green development of the textile industry. In practice, it is necessary to constantly improve the concept and grasp the key points, especially to seek greater breakthroughs in the development of green supply chain.
1、 Innovating management methods and strengthening collaborative transformation
With the rapid development of textile industry, it has brought a lot of energy and resource consumption and pollutant emissions. According to the 2012 environmental statistics, among the 41 industrial industries surveyed, the textile industry has a wastewater discharge of 2.37 billion tons, ranking third; The COD emission of textile industry ranks fourth in the industrial industry.
In order to break the resource and environmental constraints and speed up the green development of the textile industry, while strengthening government supervision, it is also necessary to innovate environmental management methods, especially to strengthen the application of market-oriented and socialized means, form a collaborative management mechanism of government supervision, market drive and public participation, and play a set of combined punches to promote the green transformation and development of enterprises. Green supply chain management is an innovative environmental management method based on the market. It relies on the supply relationship between core enterprises and upstream and downstream enterprises, takes procurement as the link, and drives the green level of upstream and downstream enterprises to improve together through the positive incentives formed by the green supplier management and green procurement carried out by core enterprises.
As far as the textile industry is concerned, its industrial chain is long and the manufacturing process has a great impact on the ecological environment; The seasonal characteristics of terminal products are obvious, and they are consumables with large social demand. By building a green supply chain, giving play to the leading role of enterprises, especially leading enterprises, and forming a pattern of "point with line, line with surface", we can carry out environmental management on the links of textile product design, production, circulation, sales, recycling, reuse, treatment and so on, and promote the transformation of the behavior of designers, suppliers, producers, logistics providers, distributors, consumers and other subjects, Then form an environment-friendly textile production and consumption mode, and reduce the ecological environmental impact of the whole life cycle of textiles.
2、 Improve the institutional environment and guide enterprises to practice vigorously
In recent years, the state has issued a series of policy standards, such as the industrial green development plan (2016-2020), the guidelines for the implementation of green manufacturing projects (2016-2020), the textile industry development plan (2016-2020), the notice on the construction of green manufacturing system, the guidelines for green supply chain management of green manufacturing enterprises, and implemented green manufacturing demonstration and other support projects, Actively guide leading enterprises in the textile and other industries to build a green supply chain. The textile industry development plan (2016-2020) clearly states, "carry out green supply chain management pilot, build a textile cycle system from raw materials, production, marketing, consumption to recycling, and cultivate green supply chain demonstration enterprises." According to the notice on the construction of green manufacturing system, the Ministry of industry and information technology has carried out two batches of green manufacturing demonstration work around the four key areas of green products, green factories, green parks and green supply chain. In the third batch of demonstration work just launched, the textile and garment industry has been added to the green supply chain demonstration field, which is important for exploring excellent green supply chain management enterprises in the textile industry, It plays an important role in promoting the green development of the industry by setting up industry models.
In addition to national promotion, some third-party institutions have also carried out relevant practices. In 2008, the natural resources Conservation Association launched the "cleaning begins with design" project to guide multinational clothing brands and retailers to build a green supply chain to reduce the environmental impact of relevant factories. According to the report of the natural resources protection association, in 2016, more than 20 printing and dyeing enterprises in China saved nearly 4million tons of water, more than 30000 tons of coal and more than $8million in costs through relevant transformation.
In 2014, the public environmental research center and the natural resources protection association jointly developed the green supply chain Citi index to evaluate the environmental management performance of enterprises in textile, electronics and other industries. The 2017 Citi index of green supply chain shows that the green supply chain created by textile enterprises such as h&m, gap, Adidas, Nike, Yida, Li Ning and Youngor has played a certain exemplary role in the industry.
3、 Identify the key points and comprehensively improve the green level
From a global perspective, foreign textile enterprises take the lead in applying green supply chain into practice. Some multinational enterprises have become industry benchmarks, more or less driving the green development of the industry. From a domestic perspective, although there are relevant policy standards and some enterprise practices, few domestic enterprises are really engaged in green supply chain management. In order to mobilize the enthusiasm of textile enterprises to build a green supply chain, it is suggested to focus on the following work:
First, provide clear direction. Because most textile enterprises do not have a high awareness of green supply chain, they do not know what it is, let alone how to do it. Therefore, there are significantly fewer textile enterprises that actively extend corporate social responsibility and build a green supply chain. In order to guide enterprises to participate, on the one hand, it is suggested to organize industry experts and excellent enterprises to go deep into local areas, especially textile enterprise clusters such as the Yangtze River Delta and the Pearl River Delta, to carry out the publicity and implementation of green supply chain policies and experience sharing, so as to improve enterprises' awareness and understanding of this work. On the other hand, it is suggested to issue the "guidelines for the management of green supply chain in textile and clothing industry", which will be first presented in the form of group standards or industry standards, and then upgraded to national standards when conditions are ripe, so as to provide model reference for enterprises to build green supply chain; Explore and issue the "evaluation index of green supply chain in textile industry" to provide a more objective basis for the government or third-party institutions to identify excellent textile enterprises.
Secondly, form stable positive incentives. Promoting the green development of textile industry is a systematic project, involving multiple links, multiple subjects, multiple systems, and multiple mechanisms, which is difficult to achieve overnight. Among them, the production link is the most critical, and the green production of upstream enterprises is the focus of green supply chain management. To promote green production of textiles, the most important thing is to reduce water consumption and related pollutant emissions. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out ecological design, improve production technology, and purchase advanced environmental treatment facilities. However, for enterprises, this often means hard investment, and these inputs will be transferred level by level along the industrial chain, and finally reflected in the sales price of terminal textiles. From the perspective of the whole life cycle, the environmental impact of green textiles has decreased, but its price has increased. In the current situation of green consumption atmosphere, it is difficult for green textiles to obtain market competitive advantage. In order to solve this dilemma, while strengthening environmental law enforcement and justice, we should also form stable and continuous positive incentives, especially increasing tax relief for green textile enterprises, and lowering the approval threshold of green credit and green bonds, so that enterprises can benefit from green behavior, so as to mobilize the enthusiasm of textile enterprises to participate in green supply chain management.
Thirdly, pay attention to the key links of the work. The textile industry chain is long, involving fiber manufacturing, spinning, weaving, printing and dyeing, clothing making, washing, packaging and other links. Of course, the ecological environment impact of different links will be different. Among them, printing and dyeing has the greatest impact on the ecological environment. Therefore, we should grasp the key to the problem and focus on guiding printing and dyeing products purchasing enterprises to build a green supply chain, which can drive printing and dyeing enterprises to improve the level of green production. In addition, enterprises producing terminal textiles also need to pay special attention. Compared with other enterprises in the industrial chain, such enterprises are at the end of the industrial chain and have a strong driving force on the whole industrial chain. If a scientific green supply chain management system can be established, comprehensive environmental management can be carried out on product design, production, transportation and other links. After locking these two types of entities, enterprises with relatively high market share can be guided to take the lead in building a green supply chain, so as to achieve twice the result with half the effort and maximize the promotion of the green level of the whole chain. In addition to production enterprises, large e-commerce platforms, supermarkets and shopping malls also have strong industry driving force. This is because terminal textiles are mainly sold on these large platforms or places. By guiding such entities to build a green supply chain, especially by controlling green procurement and scientifically managing suppliers, the incentive effect can be transferred level by level to textile production and logistics enterprises, and relevant enterprises can be driven to improve the level of green development.